Boost Logic makes more turbo kits for the Nissan R35 GT-R than anyone else, and the naming does not make it obvious which one you want. A 1050X makes more power than a 1200X. The True 58x costs more than the 1500x. The 2500x is not simply a bigger 2400x.
This guide sorts the entire lineup by what actually matters: how much power you want, how fast you want it to arrive, and how much of the car you are willing to modify to get it.
The short answer
Most people reading this want one of three kits.
- Stock internals, want a real jump: 750x Gen 2
- Want 1000+ whp and a car that still drives like stock: BLGTR 1000x
- Built motor, want the most power per unit of lag: Ultra Spool or 1050X
If you already knew that, keep reading. The interesting decisions are further up.
Tier 1: Stock-frame and bolt-on (700-1000 whp)
750x Gen 2
The proven bolt-on. Custom-spec turbos with GTR-optimized compressor and exhaust wheels, designed to drop into the stock location without drama. This is the kit for someone with a healthy engine who wants a serious jump without opening the motor or rethinking the car.
Pair it with the 3-inch downpipe kit, which was designed around exactly this power level.
BLGTR 1000x
The sweet spot of the entire lineup, and the kit we recommend most often. It makes 1000+ whp with great spool and still drives like stock. Custom turbos with billet compressor wheels, and no core exchange required, which is a bigger deal than it sounds when you are trying to keep a car on the road.
Four figures of wheel horsepower in a car you can still drive to dinner is a genuinely absurd thing, and this is the cheapest honest path to it.
Tier 2: Built motor, big spool (1000-1350 whp)
Here is where the naming starts lying to you. Read carefully.
1050X
Makes 1200+ whp with incredible spool. Garrett CHRAs with billet compressor wheels, paired with Turbosmart dual-port actuators. Despite the smaller number in the name, this makes more power than the 1200X.
Ultra Spool
Built on Garrett G-Series turbochargers, standard with G-Series 660s, good for 1150-1200 whp with the fastest spool in the range. If you value response over peak, and you drive the car on real roads or a road course, this is the one to look at.
1200X
Designed to max out the stock exhaust manifold power level. Garrett cartridge turbos with a 58mm inducer rated to 1350 hp. Think of the 1200X as the ceiling of the stock manifold, not as a step above the 1050X. Once you want more than this, the conversation changes.
Tier 3: Billet and serious (1300-1800 whp)
1300x and 1800x
Both move to 100% billet turbo technology, which means lighter, more reliable, and more powerful. Both run 3.5-inch turbo inlets. The 1800x is the platform the True 68x was later built on, which tells you how much development sits behind it.
1500x
The wildest bottom-mount configuration in the lineup, making over 1550 whp. This kit exists for people who want to run 8-flat in the quarter mile. That is a specific goal, and this is a specific tool.
True 58x
Debuted at the GTR World Cup and became the proven king of its class. It remains the most powerful 58mm-inducer turbo kit on the market for the R35. If you are competing in a class with an inducer limit, you already know why this kit exists.
Tier 4: No compromise (2000 whp and up)
True 68x
Takes the proven 1800x platform and steps it up to the highest-flowing, most powerful 68mm stock-location turbo kit available. Note the fitment requirements: the H cover version requires frame notching. Plan for the frame notch kit and the modified AC line if you want to keep air conditioning.
BLGTR 2400x
72mm-inducer turbochargers pushing over 2400 whp, fed by 4-inch titanium inlets. This is the future of insane-power street GT-Rs, and yes, people do drive these.
2500x
The kit that rewrites the rulebook. It mounts massive PTE Sportsman-frame turbos in the stock location while retaining air conditioning, which should not be possible and yet here we are. Requires the 3D printed turbo support brackets.
What the turbo kit does not include
This is where most builds go wrong. A turbo kit is one component in a system, and the system has to keep up.
Cooling. A 1000whp car that heat-soaks is a 700whp car on the second pull. See the intercooler range. The Street core is 1000HP-ready; the Ultimate Race is rated past 2000whp.
Exhaust. Big turbos need somewhere to breathe. Downpipes and midpipes are not optional at these power levels.
Fuel. At some point the stock injector count runs out. That is what the 18-injector intake manifold is for.
The engine. Past roughly 1000 whp you are into built motor territory: forged pistons, Manley rods, ARP head studs, fire ring gaskets.
The drivetrain, which is what usually ends the build. All-wheel drive plus four figures plus a hard launch is the exact recipe that snaps axles and cracks differential cases. 300M axles, billet diff cases and GR6 hardware are not accessories at this level.
Still not sure?
The most expensive way to build a GT-R is to buy the turbos first and discover the rest of the car one failure at a time. Tell us your power target, how you actually use the car, and what is already done to it, and we will spec it properly.